Day 19 - 13th June

Portreath - St Ives - Lands End (39 miles)
Dan and I enjoyed a fine cooked breakfast (another first on the trip) and then staggered off the find our bikes, hoping they would take the weight!
We conquered a classic climb out of the cove where Portreath sits and then breezed along the coast on high ground with Costa del St Ives in the distance.
The weather was perfect and we were both in good spirits as we ate up the miles at an encouraging rate.
It was very tempting to spend the afternoon on the almost empty beach at St Ives but we resisted and pressed on up the last big hill of the day to our lunch stop near Zennor.
With the beautiful weather, winding coastal roads and quaint little villages made this last section of the ride a real highlight for me. A bike didn't strike me as the most sensible or relaxing way to explore the cornish coast but I can honestly say I would happily do this sectiona again (see photo).
Finding ourselves only 6 miles from Lands End I felt the sudden urge not to rush so we stopped for a well earned Cornish cream tea and then headed for the finish line.
And then.....there it was. Lands End! We crossed the line, had cake and whisky, made phone calls, chatted to a few people just starting out, signed the official book and enjoyed looking out to the Atlantic sea. Despite the theme park that is now Lands End I did find myself able to enjoy the experience.
1058 miles! What can I say. Its been an adventure.
I hope you have enjoyed reading about my travels. There are many more tales to tell than are contained in these pages but no doubt they will come out over time.
I have found it such an encouragement to know that people are taking an interest so thank you for all your support.
C U soon

Day 18 - 12th June

Tintagel - Portreath (49 miles)
Today started with cereal for breakfast! Well when you've been travelling light and not carrying stuff like milk and cereal it makes a wonderful change from bananas and chewy bars.
After a few miles of cycling through drizzle and rain I made it to Rock with its little ferry waiting to take me accross to Padstow. As I waited to board the ferry the sun came out so I decded to wait for the next one and sit on the beach for a while with some cornish ice cream. I felt it was important to take care of my body ready for the steep climbs in the afternoon.
As expected the afternoon did involve some considerable hills. For a while I followed the 'Camel trail' which I presumed was called that because of the undulations but later realised that the river camel flows down past Padstow.
Today I had my most bizarre pub experience whilst having an afternoon ale in the Red Lion at St Columb Major. It was full of some colourful locals and one particular lady who marched around the bar area insisting that everyone sponsor me or else! I have a list of names on my sponsorship form to prove it and it includes the likes of Webby, Shiney, Skeggs and the likable (but distinctly pissed) Snipps. It was a great way of raising money for Macmillan but having finished my pint I was quite glad to leave.
Towards the end of the day I found myself at the bottom of an epic hill up to St Agnes and was sitting on a wall pondering the challenge ahead. An old lady came over to chat to me and suggested a tiny back road through the valley which was much more gradual. Now, I have had mixed experinces of locals and directions but I had a good feeling about this one so I set off in the direction she pointed. She was absolutely right. What a beautiful little road which was like a tunnel of trees that shaded me from the late afternoon sun.
Over the next hill was the welcome sight of my Father-in-law Dan outside a lovely B+B. Dan had kindly agreed to join me for the last day of the trip and see me to the finish line.
I ended the day wishing that I could go back and find the old lady who offered me such good advive and thank her for her kindness...

Day 17 - 11th June

Exeter - Okehampton - Launceston - Tintagel (64 miles)
Firstly I want to acknowledge the most committed follower of my blog - Saucie_pepper. Yesterdays comment took me back about 20 years to a pizza restaurant in Exeter that served 'dustbin lid' pizzas (no prizes for guessing why they are called that). It has been mentioned that at times my blog has appeared to revolve around food which is probably true but this time it was someone else who introduced the food theme.
Todays riding involved big miles and big hills!
I've always imagined Dartmoor in slightly murky conditions and today reinforced that idea. As I skirted round the north flank of Dartmoor in the rain I wondered if I was going to see it at all and then a huge dark submarine like shape appeared out of the low cloud and loomed over me for a few miles (see photo).
After Launceston the sun came out and I climbed around the north flank of Bodmin moor along quiet cornish lanes with banks covered in purple and yellow flowers (see photo). I was eager for a distant view of the sea in the late afternoon sun but before I topped out near Davidstow a thick grey sea mist rolled in and obscured just about everything. the only thing I did spot was my favourite place name of the trip so far - Splatt. Wouldn't that be a fun place to live.
I did eventually get to see the sea as I sped down into Tintagel and I suddenly felt quite excited. The first views of the open sea since Day 2 in the far North of Scotland.
The YHA Hostel at Tintagel is beautifully perched on the cliffs (see photo) and provided a very peaceful and welcoming end to a good days pedaling.
Tommorrow....the cornish coast and cream teas!

Apologies

To all of you who have been keeping an eye on the blog and wondering why all was quiet,
Thank you for your interest and support. I was desperate to find places to do some blogging but sadly even mobile reception was tricky at times. But here I am and here are the last 3 days entries.....

Day 16 - 10th June

Wedmore - Taunton - Collumpton - Exeter (63 miles) Today started as every Sunday should - sitting on the patio in the clear morning sunshine eating banana pancakes with maple syrup and fresh fruit. After that the idea of getting on a bike was a little difficult. However, today's setting-off was different to any other on the trip so far.....I had company! My colleague Charles and my host Jon cycled the whole way with me today and it was fantastic. Thanks guys for your company and commitment to the cause. You made today a real highlight. We set off across the somerset levels which are very level but sinking in places which was demonstrated nicely by some of the roads and nearby houses. All of this is reminder that this part of the world was and still is a flood plain. After lunch near Taunton we found ourselves in slightly more hilly terrain which in the heat of the afternoon was a struggle at times so we found our way along the canals on a couple of occasions. the canals were a little rough in places but distinctly flat! The last leg into Exeter was a bit of a slog in the late afternoon heat but we made it in time for Charles and Jon to make their separate journeys back home. Having ditched the tent I made my way to the 'Globe Backpackers' Hostel which is a typical city hostel full of a bizarre and varied mix of clients. The adventure continues! Tomorrow - Devon and its beloved hills. I'd better get some rest.....

Day 15 - 9th June

Bristol to Wedmore (37 miles)
Having had 2 separate breakfasts with 2 separate lots of friends I was ready to leave the big city and head for the country.
I ditched the tent and a few other camping bits in Bristol (to pick up on the way back home) so I was feeling a little lighter and full of energy. I decided that I had enough planned stops not requiring a tent that I might as well fill in the gaps with YHA Hostels and so do away with the need for a tent (a distinct advantage when facing the repetitive undulations of Devon and Cornwall).
I navigated my way across the Avonmouth bridge (not the most picturesque of bridges) and quickly found myself in Clevedon and then Yatton. Having made good progress I did wonder around and visit my old house and school etc etc. I don't know what I really expected to find but nothing much had changed. There were lots of kids playing in the streets around my old house just as I used to do. It was nice to remember.
The next section of the route took me along the 'strawberry' line which is now a cycle track but used to carry strawberries from the fertile land on the south side of the mendips up to London while still fresh. The cyclepath includes quite a long tunnel without any lighting but a strip of cats eyes on the ground to aid the cyclist. There were quite a few of us attempting to navigate the tunnel at the same time and it almost ended in disaster. Thankfully I came out unscathed and sauntered down through cheddar to Wedmore and my bed for the night.
I found the house I was looking for with ease having now mastered the art of spotting the locals who will know. This time the chosen local didn't recognise certain aspects of the address but knew exactly who I was looking for and showed me the house. I love these small villages where everyone knows each other.
Tomorrow I am cycling with a colleague (Charles Campion-Smith) and looking forward to it very much. Tonight I have the pleasure of staying with some of Charles' relatives in their lovely renovated barn. Thanks guys, the welcome and food have been wonderful.
Their 2 little girls are a delight and seeing them playing made me smile and also reminded me of how much I miss my 2 little girls (and Lucy of course).
Only 4 more days to go!

Day 14 - 8th June

Monmouth - Bristol (31 miles)
I love the guidebook I am using for this trip. It is full of useful information including the location of every pub on the route. The author says they make useful waymarkers which is very true. I don't think he intends you to stop at every one although I have been tempted.
Today was a hot and muggy day so stopping at every pub was more tempting than ever. I climbed steadily up into the welsh hills before sailing (sorry cycling) down into Chepstow and across the Severn Bridge.
I was amused by the 2.3m width restriction on the bridge cycle path (see photo). I am quite wide with the paniers on but 2.3m! - thats some bike! There was also a 15mph speed limit (for bikes) which is slightly easier to exceed.
Following a blowout on my from tyre and some roadside repairs I arrived in sunny Bristol and spent a lovely evening with friends and family.
Thanks Phil, Mags, Skye, Natalie, Neil and Matthew for your warm welcome and opportunities to play (both with the kids toys and pool down the local pub).
Also thanks to Julie for good food and goods chats.
Tomorrow I cycle through Yatton which is the village where I spent some of my early childhood. Fond memories! Maybe I'll cycle past my old house.....

Day 13 - 7th June

Lydbury North - Monmouth (73 miles)
After covering a healthy 30 miles this morning I decided a nice lunch break was in order and I stumbled across a place in Eardisley called 'The New Strand'. It turned out to be one of those wonderful little cafes come secondhand bookshop come pub come just about anything you want it to be. Every corridor was floor to ceiling with books and it was obviously the local meeting place. This was a fun place to have lunch and pick up some useful local info.
The afternoon took me into the 'Golden Valley' to monmouth via a very quaint toll bridge where I had to pay my 5p! I can only describe my progress through this part of the world as meandering although as you can see I managed to clock up an impressive 73 miles of meandering before wheeling across the Monnow bridge to my resting place for the night.
Believe or not, Monmouth is the most lively place I've been in days so I went for a wonder down the high street to sample the night life and an ale or two but it was all dead by 10.30. So to bed...
Tomorrow..... Bristol - 'Capital of the south west'

Day 12 - 6th June

Melverley - Lydbury North (31 miles)
I got up late and wandered round the tiny 15th Century church at Melverley made of timber, wattle and daub (see photo). It was wonderfully peaceful. In fact the whole of Melverley felt sleepy so I was surprised to see the sign announcing that Melverley has been awarded 'most motivated village of the year'. I can't imagine what that means or what they did to get it!
I took a leisurely (thanks to yesterday) ride through to Bishops Castle and Lydbury North stopping on the way for a wonderful break at 'The Sun Inn' in Marton. This family run restaurant gave me a lovely welcome and very kindly sponsored me. The food was Fantastic and the ale was a fine complement. And to top it all off they allowed me to use their computer to keep my blog up to date. You guys made my day. Thank you!
Bishops Castle is a pleasantly sleepy town like so many in this area and the riding is undulating but quite enjoyable amid this picturesque and peaceful landscape.

Day 11 - 5th June

Appley Bridge - Warrington - Ellesmere - Melverley (86 miles)
What a day!!
In our family we have a tradition of recalling 'highs' and 'lows' when we been on a big trip and so I thought I'd do the same for todays adventures.

Highs
Fine weather again.
A beautiful ride through the green bits of Warrington (yes they do exist). The 'Sanky Canal Trail'(see photo) takes you right through and links up with the 'Trans Pennine Trail' which helps you across the mersey through some meadows and scrub land. I really enjoyed this bit.
Good progress to Ellesmere.
Even hastier progress to Melverly before it got dark (see lows).
A warm and welcoming campsite in Melverley with the prime spot (under ye olde oak. See photo) all to myself.

Lows
The need to do some serious rubber burning in the midday sun (I knew I had alot of miles to cover).
Being chased down the road by a big black dog. Thankfully it gave up before I had to resort to squirting water at it (top tip from the guidebook).
Dodgy directions from a nice lady in Tarporley (see next point).
Trying to find Beeston! I'm still not convinced I actually found it.
A distinct lack of campsites in or around Ellesmere. The ones I had researched were no longer in existence!? Thankfully I had researched some 15 - 20 miles south although that wasn't very comforting as it was 7pm and I had already cycled 70 miles!
A complete lack of mobile phone reception around Ellesmere making the solving of the campsite problem a little tricky.
Cycling a third of tomorrows ride today! It will be a 'high' tomorrow.

So there you have it. The day that was. I think I'll have a lie-in tomorrow.

Day 10 - 4th June

Lancaster - Preston - Appley Bridge (47 miles)
Having received warnings from my guidebook about the challenges of cycling through Lancaster and Preston I was pleasantly surprised with the mornings riding. After joining other cyclists on Lancaster's lovely millennium bridge, I quickly found myself breezing along a wide easygoing cycle path in the sunshine with nice views over Morecombe bay. Preston was also fairly simple to get through and before I knew it I was into the Lancashire countryside again.
The country lanes south of Preston make for easy riding but this part of the world seems to be full of sprawling, uncharacterful villages that lack any obvious centre and appear to join up with each other (quite confusing when trying to decide where exactly you are).
My first day back in the saddle after the weekend off finished early and I felt optimistic (both emotionally and physically).
Tomorrow - Warrington and the Mersey with the Welsh borders beckoning!

Day 9 - 1st June

Threlkeld - Lancaster (55 miles)
The deep blue sky and bright sunshine that woke me this morning was wonderful. A close second was the cup of tea and extra sponsorship from my neighbours on the campsite, Elizabeth and Ben. Thanks Guys!
Today was the lake district at its best. I drifted my way alongside Thirlmere (pictured here) and Grasmere and then through Ambleside, Windernere and Kendal with the sun on my back the whole way. In fact, it was a wee bit (sorry, forgot I'm now back in England) too warm at times, especially on the climbs.
What interests me about the Lake district is that the cafes and roads are full but the fells seem pretty empty apart from the odd mountain biker or weary looking school party. Maybe I'm just biased because I was trying to negotiate the narrow roads and busy towns. However, I did feel that I had earned my scone with jam and cream unlike some people who looked like they really needed to walk theirs off!
And now its time for 2 much needed rest days before I venture down through the northwest and on into Wales.

Day 8 - 31st May

Longtown - Threlkeld (41 miles)
A lovely sunny day that took me high into the lake district with its tiny lanes that cling to the mountain sides.
After a new back wheel in Carlisle (Yes, I managed to wear the rims of my old ones a bit thin!) I took an 'interesting' riverside cycle path out of town. This path has to be the only cycle route with barriers that are impossible to get your bike through (even minus paniers), unsignposted detours through terraced backstreets and most frustrating of all, STEPS! ah well....all adds to the adventure.
A beautiful bowl of homemade soup (the kind my mum makes!) with cheese and chutney sandwiuches at a tiny cafe in the tiny village of Heskett Newmarket set me up for a fabulous ride to the not so tiny (but nice all the same) campsite near Threlkeld. The campsite, like the rest of the area, lies deep in the shadow of Blencathra which towers above you as a constant prescence (see picture). Even the local community newsletter is called 'Below Blencathra'.
The knees were sore today but some rest is only a day away!

Day 7 - 30th May

Galashiels - Longtown (68 miles)
Today was a long but fabulous day although it had a rather grim start. Despite the promise of sunshine, the first few hours of the day were wet and I really struggled to leave the comfort of the house (I had stayed with a friend Ruth).
Then came the sun and better still, the Esk valley. This is a beautiful and peaceful place with the quietest roads imaginable. Glenmorangie lays claim to the term 'Glen of tranquility' but having been there on this trip I can tell you that its not a touch on this place.
Maybe unsurprisingly, the upper valley is home to the 'Samye Ling Tibetan Centre' which is the largest Buddhist monastry in the western world (pictured here). I popped in for some tea and cake and a rest in the very softly furnished cafe.
I should mention that towards the end of today I passed back into England with a momentous sense of anticlimax. The 'Welcome to England' sign was almost lost in the bushes and looked very shabby. I was sad to have left Scotland but happy to have cycled nearly half my trip within its borders!